Your dear’s gone hunting, brought home a deer

By: 
Kathleen Marsh
Columnist

Though my home and heart are in the Northwoods, I don’t come from a deer hunting family. My people were dairy farmers, and the idea of taking time off to go up north to kill a tough, stringy buck when you are raising your own grass-fed beef was beyond comprehension. There was one time, though, that a neighbor gave us some fresh venison steaks. Mom was game to try it, but as a busy farm wife, she didn’t have time to find out how to cook it.

Oh, dear. To this day I am convinced those steaks were from a mean old bark-fed buck looking for revenge, because they actually looked and chewed like leather. The meat had such a “wild” taste that, for once, my father did not insist we eat everything on our plates. In fact, I think that was the only time I ever saw him leave more than a morsel on his plate.

My first husband wasn’t really a hunter, either, but he went to deer camp for cognac, camaraderie and card games. He never brought home a deer, and that was fine by me. If he had, like my mother, I would have had no idea what to do with it. The truth is I had no desire to learn, so years passed before I needed to change my destiny — and my diet.

The motivation came from a strange source, a primary care physician who informed me when I turned 40 that I have genetically-transmitted high cholesterol. As luck would have it, that year I married my second husband, who had been deer hunting since age 10. Jon explained that venison has very little fat and no cholesterol, perfect for someone with my heredity who likes red meat. I was excited when he brought home a buck that year. My game plan was to learn how to prepare it so I could eat it without gagging.

Taking advice from a cousin who was a lifelong connoisseur, I succeeded, and over the years I’ve learned to cook all kinds of wild game: squirrel, turkey, rabbit, grouse, elk and, of course, venison. I have had guests say it’s better than beef, though I would never try to fool anyone and always ask before serving it. I have found many ways to prepare a great meal of venison, but if you’ve come into possession of some, here’s an easy, delicious recipe.

While the meat is thawing but still firm, remove all the silver skin and fat with a sharp knife. This eliminates the wild taste. Loins are easy; all they need is to be cooked or grilled quickly at high heat and eaten immediately. However, that will not work if you are cooking less tender cuts. These should be thinly sliced or cut into small chunks (think tenderloin tips). Measure a couple tablespoons of flour into a plastic bag, throw in the venison and shake the bag to coat the meat.

Next, brown the venison over medium high heat in butter just until the red is gone. Season with salt and pepper. It really adds a nice touch and makes for a tender finish if you add a splash of Worcestershire sauce and a squirt of ketchup. Smother the meat in onion, garlic, canned or fresh mushrooms, whatever you like, and simmer gently in beef broth for at least three hours. Be sure to add water as needed to keep the meat in a simmering liquid at all times. As my mother learned the hard way, venison can turn to shoe leather in a hurry.

As for the beef broth, I prefer Penzy’s, but even broth made from the little cubes wrapped in foil will do. Just be aware they are loaded with salt. Whatever you do, do notadd spices like bay leaf or thyme if you have never tasted them before. For most people, it’s the unfamiliar spice and not the venison they dislike.

When the meat is fork tender, cook down the juice to make a delicious brown gravy. Ladle the meat and gravy over mashed potatoes, noodles, rice or pasta. Cooked carrots and peas and grilled French bread make perfect sides. Serve it piping hot, then sit back and enjoy both the meal and the compliments!

Oh, in case you were wondering, Jon got a nice eight-point buck on opening weekend. He says every year that this might be the year we won’t have venison in the freezer. I hope that never happens, because I am told grilled cheese is loaded with cholesterol.


Kathleen Marsh is a lifelong educator, writer and community advocate. She has published eight books, four on the history of Townsend, where she and husband Jon are happily retired on the beautiful Townsend Flowage.